An American in Oz - Global eBook Awards Winner! Action/Adventure Non-Fiction Category

Day 1 of 55 - Arrival Sydney

2010-07-31T12:00:00.025-04:00

December 7th never happened in my lifetime. Losing a day is a strange phenomenon that occurs when a traveler flies east to west and crosses the International Date Line.

This trip began in December 1999 when Jeff and I, two Americans, flew to Australia to celebrate the turn of the millennium in a very big way. A decade later, it seems not much has changed, especially off-the-beaten-path. Follow the blog as it takes you on a journey by train, plane, and automobile - a journey across a continent similar in size to the continental United States.

An American in Oz is my story.

Day 1 of 55:

Arriving in Sydney that warm summer day, the first item on our agenda was to find a place to stay the night. Jeff and I flew into the country with only one reservation in place, to take a train from Sydney to Perth the following morning (distances and locations explained in the next blog). We were traveling on a "No Plan" plan and fortunate to have found the Great Southern Hotel in Sydney. It was close to the train station and offered ideal accommodations.

(The photo above is one of Qantas' aircrafts set against an aerial view of the famous Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbor Bridge. If you'd like a closer look, click on the photo to enlarge.)

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Day 2 of 55 - "All Aboard!!!" The Train to Perth December 9, 1999

2010-07-31T09:00:00.001-04:00

To the left is a picture of the Sydney railway station.

After a good long sleep, Jeff and I packed up our stuff and headed for the train station. We were to depart at 2:55 pm sharp, but an accident on the tracks caused a delay. We weren't in a hurry, and the conductor promised we would make up the time along the 3-day journey coast-to-coast. The Indian Pacific Railway would take us from the Pacific Ocean to the Indian Ocean, the same distance as traveling from Savannah, GA to Los Angeles, CA.

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Day 3 of 55: My First Kangaroo Dec 10, 1999

2010-07-30T12:00:00.000-04:00

I saw my first kangaroo the 3rd day into the trip. I borrowed this picture from the Indian Pacific Railway archives. I was too excited to remember to take a picture, but this is what it looked like, not much out there except sand, shrubbery, kangaroos and emus. It was great.

Sydney, Australia is 14 hours ahead of the eastern United States, so it takes awhile to adjust to that kind of time change. Heading west via the Indian Pacific Railway means we're getting closer to our own time at home by a whole hour. Not a big difference in the grand scheme of things. It may have been December, but was summertime in Oz, because the seasons are opposite to ours at home. Below is a picture of me at the start of the trip, a bit jetlagged. There will be photos throughout, and you'll be able to see the progression of happiness on my face.

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Day 4 of 55 The Town of Cook Dec 11, 1999

2010-07-30T09:00:00.003-04:00

We're moving along out of the state of South Australia (SA) and into Western Australia (WA). Not much can survive in the southern outback, so my kangaroo count is dwindling.

Here is a map of the train route. To enlarge, click on the picture. When it goes to a new screen, click on the picture again and you'll be able to find Cook and all the other train stops.

On this 4th day, we stopped in the small town called Cook (pop. 3 or 4) on the western edge of SA. Below is a sign that greets the tourists. It's in typical outback condition: rough around the edges, rusting, and filled with Aussie humor. The second photo is of our train. I didn't see a road into Cook, so I'll assume the train is the only connection to civilization the town has. I'm just beginning to get a sense of how desolate it is in the outback. This was a short layover, just long enough to stretch our legs and take a look around. All aboard!!! It's time to head deeper into the Nullarbor Plain in Western Australia.

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Day 5 of 55 - Arrival Perth Dec 12th

2010-07-29T12:00:00.002-04:00

Perth, Western Australia

At 9:30 am, the train rolled into Perth, the capital city of Western Australia (WA), aka: "The Dallas of Australia." Perth is one of 8 capital cities in Australia, WA being the largest state in the country....and the world. WA covers a good third of the continent. In the USA, it's the equivalent of the space between the Rocky Mountains and California, maybe more. SW Australia is filled with forests, vineyards, and in these December summer months, the temp is a perfect 78 degrees.

While in Sydney, Jeff and I made reservations for a place to stay in Perth. We wanted to ease into our "No Plan" plan with a bit more grace. A van was waiting for us at the Perth train station to take us to Britannia YHA (youth hostel) on William Street.

As much as I enjoyed the 3-day train ride, it felt great to be able to walk around, take in the fresh air, and see the sights. Perth is a gorgeous city, and what I now call, the gateway to the world. We had a lot to see and discover, but first on our agenda was fresh food. We ate, we napped, and woke up at 2:30 am. The day was gone. I thought we had adjusted to the time change, but it would take another day to get in sync. Here's a photo of the hostel where we stayed. Great location. We could walk to everything.

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Day 6 of 55 - Perth and friends Dec 13

2010-07-29T09:00:00.000-04:00

Perth, the capital city of Western Australia, sits along the banks of the Swan River. The Swan River flows west into the Indian Ocean.

The first item on our agenda was to figure out how to get up to the town of Exmouth, gateway to the Ningaloo Reef, our first of three planned destinations on our journey through Oz. When I look at the continent, I see a dog's head. Perth sits on the "dog's mouth" and Exmouth sits on the "dog's nose."

Uluru (Ayers Rock), in the center of the country, and the Great Barrier Reef , along the northeast coastline, were the other two major points of interest. In a country the size of the continental United States. We had 4000 miles to cover. On a budget and in a foreign land, we also had a lot to figure out in our "no plan" plan.

Jeff and I took another walk through town to check into renting a car. But before taking care of business, we made arrangements to meet with our new friends, Jaime and Laura, at our hostel. (Jaime and Laura were on the train ride with us.) We explored Perth and ended up back at their hotel on the Swan River to make some phone calls. Being Australians, they helped us ask the right questions about car rentals.

It turned out, renting a car in Australia is very expensive, and the drive we were planning to make was a long and lonely one across the western outback, 9 hours to be exact. It was going to be like driving from Los Angeles to Eureka, CA, almost to Oregon. So Jeff and I decided to fly north to Exmouth. Once we were there, we would have to figure out how to get to Uluru and then to the Great Barrier Reef. But no sense worrying about the cursed how's in a "no-plan" plan.....yet. We were still enjoying the beautiful city of Perth.

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Day 7 of 55 - Rottnest Island, Western Australia

2010-07-28T12:00:00.000-04:00

Jeff and I began the day with our sights set on a flight north to Exmouth, WA. By the end of breakfast, we had changed our minds. Perth was beautiful and Rottnest Island was calling. If we were going to fly out of Exmouth to the center of Australia, destination #2, then this would be our last day in southwest Australia. We had heard about Rottnest from a few Aussies we met on the train ride from Sydney, and the locals in Perth highly recommended we check out this vacation destination.

Knowing we might stay overnight on the island, we packed accordingly and stored the bulk of our belongings at the Britannia YHA for safe keeping. It was an easy walk down the hill to the Barrack Street Jetty where we boarded Oceanic Cruises for the 25 minute ride out from the mainland. Dolphins led the way.

When we reached Rottnest Island, I made a connection that made my knees go weak. I realized that I knew about this spot months before we left the 'States. I had seen a movie titled Under the Lighthouse Dancing co-starring Naomi Watts, a true love story, and the scenery was breathtaking. I made a note to one day, someday see it. Once I realized where we were, I knew we would spend at least two nights. A second pleasant discovery was the absence of cars. Rottnest is a tourist destination, and the rules allow for only service vehicles with the rare exception for a private one. Several buses run continuously to get us where we needed to go. Jeff and I snorkeled, walked the beaches, saw quokkas, and enjoyed the day. Quokkas are "rat-like" kangaroo-like marsupials, carrying their young in a pouch. The name Rottnest comes from an early explorer mistaking the area as a "rat's nest," but quokkas are definitely not rats.

This is the famous island quokka. They're cute, friendly, and DO NOT FEED THEM! as the signs post.

The photo below shows quokka tracks on the beach.

Another beach picture....

Seen in Under the Lighthouse Dancing is the historic church (below), and the photo below that is of one of several lighthouses giving the movie its name.

Aussies love this island for day-tripping or week long stays. The nights are quiet, the air is cool, and its history parallels one of our own unique islands in the USA, the island of Alcatraz. More about that in the next blog...

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Day 8 of 55 - More about Rottnest Island, Western Australia

2010-07-28T09:00:00.000-04:00

Above is a detailed map of the island.

Rottnest Island sits in the Indian Ocean along the SW coastline of Australia, right about where Catalina Island sits off the coast of San Diego, CA. Both locations enjoy the same weather, except the water is colder in this part of Australia.
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Australia has an interesting, but brutal beginning known as a "convict past," a continent built on convict labor. Hundreds of years ago, Great Britain sent the baddest of the bad to this remote location on the other side of the world from which there was no escape, and Rottnest Island has preserved a part of this past.

Much like the island of Alcatraz off the coast of northern California, Rottnest is within sight of the mainland. It can see Perth, and Alcatraz can see San Francisco, but escape was nearly impossible from each due to strong currents, cold waters, and a long way to swim.

"The Quod," a set of prison houses on Rottnest that remain to this day, is a reminder of the unfair and brutal treatment of men, Aborigines included. Many of the crimes on record were misdemeanors and didn't warrant the punishment that followed prosecution. Conditions were horrific, and it wasn't until 1902 that the jail was officially closed. A book titled The Fatal Shore by Robert Hughes is one of the best known writings about Australia's dark history.

The Rottnest Island we know today reflects a peaceful and friendly atmosphere. Jeff and I chose the busiest times of the year, summer, to visit, and we were lucky to find a room at the Rottnest Lodge. Staying two nights gave us one full day to explore. To be able to snorkel the reefs even in summer, I needed a wet suit, because the waters from Antarctica were cold. It was like swimming off the coast of Maine. brrrrr... Hard to believe reefs survive this close to the South Pole.

In addition to the coral reefs, there are shipwrecks that grace the shores. The island is loaded with natural beauty and history, some sad and some inspiring. The photos below reflect a variety of fish that can be seen swimming in these waters.

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Day 9 of 55 - Back to Perth

2010-07-27T12:00:00.000-04:00

Our time on Rottnest Island came to a close at 10:45 am when Oceanic Cruises took us back to the mainland, back to Perth. Wanting to enjoy as much of the island as I could with the little time I had left, I got up extra early to explore the island at sunrise. I took a walk down to The Basin, a popular swimming hole. Below are pictures of its crystal clear waters.

It was a 48 hour chapter in my life I will always remember. I hope to return to Rottnest despite the flies. Yes, flies are an issue on this island paradise. Interesting how the Rottnest brochures mention nothing about this major annoyance, the constant bzzzz around our heads from sunrise to sunset, but the island is just so beautiful, we overlooked it. Some tourists resorted to face nets, but Jeff and I toughed it out because that's what the locals do and we wanted to fit in.

Back in Florida, the Mosquito Control squad uses heavy artillery to spray the mosquitoes out of existence. Below is a picture of one of the planes used in Florida. It's a retro-fitted DC-3/C-47. When these guys would fly low and slow dumping poison bombs over the house, I would close the windows and run for cover. Sometimes I didn't close the windows fast enough and the house would fill up with grey fog. Not good. Maybe swatting flies is a better way to live.

Back in the bug-free skies of Perth and exhausted from all the snorkeling, hiking, and swatting, Jeff and I called a cab to take us up the hill from the Barrack Street Jetty. It was time to go to the hostel to collect our belongings. Wanting a change in scenery, we checked into the Metro Inn where we rested, ate, and began planning for our departure to Exmouth the following day. We still had travel logistics to figure out, but that could wait. Why do today what we can put off until tomorrow? Sometimes procrastination is a good thing.

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Day 10 of 55 - Exmouth Can Wait

2010-07-27T09:00:00.000-04:00

Procrastination. Sometimes it's a good thing.

Jeff and I decided to postpone our flight north to Exmouth...again...this time to see the beautiful city of Fremantle, or "Freo" as the locals call it. It was time to do more sightseeing in the area around Perth, so we extended our stay at Metro Inn. Below are some of the landmarks we visited while wandering through this historic city and international port.

Fremantle Prison was one of the highs and lows of the day. Highs, because it's no longer a prison and a very interesting place to visit. Lows, because it used to be a prison and the noose in the gallows still swings in the rafters where hangings took place not too long ago. The convict past of Australia is told in Freo, and it's filled with brutal stories.

Below is a picture of the prison. The wing on the right is where the Chapel sits. Inside, the words "Thou shalt not commit murder" are in full view, rather than "Thou shalt not kill." Using the word "murder" gave prison officials a clear conscience when they killed murderers in the gallows.

Below is a row of cell blocks. Cells were cramped and cold in the winter and cramped and hot in the summer. Some of the inmates drew beautiful pictures on the walls. Those pictures have since been preserved under plastic.

Below is the noose as it hangs today.

On a lighter note, the day was beautiful, and we continued on to wander around this beautiful seaside town. There was plenty of food and shopping, and the sunsets are worth waiting for.

A memorable Fremantle sunset.

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Day 11 of 55 - Still in Fremantle!

2010-07-26T12:00:00.001-04:00

So much for plans. Everytime we thought we were headed for Exmouth to begin our snorkeling adventure on the Ningaloo Reef, something in the southwest corner of Oz kept us there. This time it was a submarine tour. Jeff and I had seen advertisements for the grand opening, so we decided to stay one more day and extend our reservation at the Metro Inn, It was a good excuse to visit Fremantle one more time (yay!) and enjoy the good weather. I have a feeling I was avoiding the heat of the north more than anything else. We knew it was going to be scorcher.
Here is a picture I took of one of the many submarines in the area. It might have been the one we were on, but I'm not positive. They all look the same to me. The USA has an active submarine base in Fremantle, and it was interesting to learn about the strong ties the US military has with Australia. It was a common thread throughout our journey.

While touring the submarine, I sat down to play "Submarine Operator" at the control station. The volunteer guide yelled, "DON'T TOUCH THE KEYBOARD! THE SHIP IS LIVE!" He then informed me that had I touched just the right keys in just the right order, I could've launched a torpedo right there on the dock. I felt like a two-year old who had to touch everything. Later, I realized it was probably Aussie humor more than the truth, and they must have had a good laugh over seeing my face flush beet red. Geez. I wasn't really going to press any of the keys. How embarrassing.

We enjoyed another Freo sunset over the Indian Ocean much like the photo in the Day 10 post below. This was our last day in and around Perth. We checked out of the Metro Inn the following morning and got the trip moving. Finally.

I have many beautiful reef pictures I've been saving for the Ningaloo entries, so check back often!

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Day 12 of 55 - Flying North on SkyWest Airlines

2010-07-26T09:00:00.000-04:00

The driving distance between where we were, Perth, and where we wanted to be, Exmouth, was 9 hours. Most of the distance is through the coastal outback, a barren stretch of land with temps well above 100 degrees. Jeff and I decided to go the easy route and fly SkyWest Airlines to our destination.

After 11 days filled with activity, we asked for a late check-out at the Metro Inn, slept in and enjoyed a day off from our vacation. R&R is just as necessary on vacation as it is at home. We lucked out with the weather too. The day was rainy, our first rain since we arrived, which made relaxing even more relaxing.

It was bittersweet saying good-bye to Perth and Fremantle, not knowing if I would ever see this part of Australia again, but a brand new adventure was about to begin at the Ningaloo Reef. We had coral, fish, turtles, and manta rays to find! Below is a preview of coming attractions.

When we finally settled in at the Potshot Resort, we left plenty of drama in our wake. Without a reservation in our "No Plan" Plan, things worked against us this time out. It brought on a ton of stress, but in the end, we figured things out, and found food and shelter. That's all that mattered.

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Day 13 of 55 - Cape Range National Park and the Ningaloo Reef

2010-07-25T12:00:00.000-04:00

One night at the Potshot was all that was required to figure out how to get to the Ningaloo Reef. We found a rental jeep in town and headed into the outback. As beautiful as the Ningaloo Reef is and the amount it has to offer, it's remote and difficult to get to. Well, that keeps the crowds down! Since we had camping gear (photo above shows all of our stuff plus the mega jug of water), we headed for Cape Range National Park, a park that borders the reef. We set up camp at Yardie Creek & Gorge. Below are photos of the creek, gorge and our camp. Since it was summertime and unbelievably hot, the park was virtually empty.

Below is our campsite at Ned's Camp.

We were back in kangaroo country and found dozens of 'roos hopping on the beach and hanging out under the eaves of the visitor center. We were definitely out of the city and into the outback!

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Day 14 of 55 - Ningaloo Reef and Sea Turtle Nesting

2010-07-25T09:00:00.000-04:00

We're at the two-week mark of our journey. This entry will be dedicated to pictures. The day was filled with wildlife and beautiful scenery, and words will only get in the way.

First there was the pretty fish and coral in the Ningaloo Reef.

Then there was the Australian bustard or bush turkey

standing 3 feet tall.

It can fly, and what a sight! Yes, I took this picture. :)

At sunset, we found a high vantage point at

The Vlaming Head Lighthouse in Cape Range National Park, Western Australia.

(I took the lighthouse pictures too.)

The lighthouse at sunset.

After sunset, we found the sea turtles and the sand was flying!

Photo courtesy of http://www.ugmedia.com.au/

Check out their site for more.

If you'd like to help out during nesting season,

go to http://www.ningalooturtles.org.au/ and find out how.

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Day 15 of 55 - More turtles, fish, and the Ningaloo Reef

2010-07-24T12:00:00.001-04:00

After our second night of camping, this time at Ned's Camp, we started the day early with a goal to find Turquoise Bay and continue snorkeling the Ningaloo Reef along the shores of Cape Range National Park. Turquoise Bay is the most beautiful beach I have ever seen, and I declared this day, "The best day ever!" Why? Because I swam with my first wild sea turtle! Click here to watch a video from an Australian TV station that describes my swim.

Below is a picture of me in my oversized shirt to protect me from the sun's rays. This part of Australia is known as "Melanoma Country," so we were covering up and slathering on the sunscreen.

Below is a picture I took just beneath the surface of the water.
There's a lot going on down there!

And this next photo is a picture I took of my first sea turtle. He/she was 3 feet long, small, as turtles go, so it must've been a young one. I used an underwater disposable camera.

Jeff and I had been in Cape Range National Park for 3 days, and we were getting a bit "ripe" due to the lack of fresh running water, so we headed out to Coral Bay, a small town recommended by the locals. At the end of the road, we found the Ningaloo Reef Resort. An oasis in the middle of nowhere. Our room was an efficiency, so we had all the conveniences of home - a shower, small kitchen, and air conditioning! I was ready for a cool spell after 105 degree temps.

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Day 16 of 55 - The Ningaloo Reef Resort

2010-07-24T09:00:00.000-04:00

Below is a picture of The Ningaloo Reef Resort in Coral Bay, Western Australia.

Christmas was only two days away, and this was our 2nd day at the resort. All we did was eat, snorkel and sleep. Now that's my idea of a vacation!

The Ningaloo Reef is one Australia's two fringing reefs. It runs for miles throughout the Indian Ocean along the shores of Western Australia, positioned where Northern California sits on the shores in the USA. The reef can be accessed from dozens of places in Western Australia. Few people know about the Ningaloo because the Great Barrier Reef gets most of the attention, but it was our #1 planned destination on our Australian Odyssey. The reef comes so close to shore at Coral Bay, no boat is needed to reach it. Just walk out the front door and into the water, and it's there.

Below is a picture I took of a camper bus parked in a nearby caravan park or campground. The name "Priscilla, Queen of the Bitumen" is a spoof on a popular Australian movie titled, "Priscilla, Queen of the Desert." It wasn't until my friend, David, the star of PART SIX in the book, visited me in 2009 that I learned the story behind the name of this bus. Bitumen (pronounced bitch-u-men) is what we call blacktop or highway pavement. Mr. Bitumen is the guy who invented the gooey-tarry substance that paves the roadways. And Priscilla, Queen of the Desert is a drag queen movie filmed in the outback, the town of Coober Pedy to be exact. I'll be mentioning more about Coober Pedy in the days ahead. For now, you can check out the movie here. I bought it, and it's a hoot! The movie has since been turned into a broadway play, and last I heard, it was playing in London, England. It may still be there.

All photos in this post are genuine trip pictures.

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Day 17 of 55 - A Real Outback Adventure

2010-07-23T12:00:00.002-04:00

Day 17 was Christmas Eve, and Jeff and I decided to go on a real outback adventure. There is a sheep station 90 minutes from the Ningaloo Reef Resort. We were told we could snorkel the reef from along its shores, so we decided to check it out. We found Warroora Sheep Station, paid $5.00 each, and found the reef. The surf was up, the water was murky, we didn't get a good view of the reef, but we found turtles, lots and lots of sea turtles. It was quite an adventure. A lot happened on this day of the trip, so if you'd like to read more, check out the book version. Every one of these blogs has more detail than will fit in a blog. Readers love the entire story, and here is what some had to say.

Here I am, minutes before we went into the white choppy surf. It was very windy that day. The only people who knew Jeff and I were at this spot were the owners of the sheep station.

Below is a picture of a grave site nearby. The stone reads, "In Memory of Vern Storry Died 24 6 79" (June 6, 1979 or maybe 1879?) Maybe he went swimming and didn't live to tell about it.

Below is a picture of the sheep station from a distance. It's in the outback, on a piece of land the size of a small country (almost), and the owners live off-the-grid. Mail was delivered once a week along with their groceries. It's as remote as it gets. I go into great detail here about the land, the people, their way of life, sheep shearing, and what it was like to drive our rental jeep through the desert and then swim in the rough waters.

At the end of the day, we celebrated being alive (we had our moments) and the beauty of Christmas Eve by dining on the patio of Fin's Cafe (below). The food was fabulous.
Fin's is also where we were able to check emails. I had a lot to tell my friends and family back home.

All photos in this blog are genuine trip photos.
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Day 18 of 55 - Christmas Day

2010-07-23T09:00:00.000-04:00

The day started out early, long before breakfast, with a seemingly innocent swim from the beach to the northwest point along the shoreline. We were looking for manta rays. I found this picture on the Internet. This one probably has a 15 to 20-foot wingspan.

The current got the best of me, and I headed for shore before reaching the point or seeing any rays. Below is an Internet photo of the point. I swam from the far left corner to 3/4 up the coastline. It was the swim of my life just to get to shore. Jeff and I walked back along the beach. The photo below shows people taking the same white path we did. (If you click on the picture, it will go to another screen where you can better see the specs in the white sand.) This picture was taken near the resort.

The day ended on a peaceful note sharing a can of lentil soup and a loaf of bread. Food I had stashed in our room. It was Christmas. Everything, even the hotel office, was closed. All day long, children were playing, and just before sunset Santa cruised by in an inflatable skiff. Picture that scene in the one above. It was very surreal. It may have been December, but it was a hot day in the tropics.

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Day 19 of 55 - Manta Rays and Time to Move On

2010-07-22T12:00:00.000-04:00

Four nights and five days proved to be our record for staying in any one place, and it was at the Ningaloo Reef Resort in Coral Bay, Western Australia.

This last day was an exciting one! We swam with the giant docile plankton-eating manta rays. We didn't find any yesterday, but we took a cruise on a boat named Dominator and found plenty. We also found sharks, but I obviously survived that encounter, because I'm here blogging about it. To get the full story, click here. The picture below is from the Internet. I chose this one to give you a sense of how big the rays were. It was awesome.

This was also the day we teamed up with Jeroen and Ottine, our new friends from Amsterdam, Holland. They have an old Ford we're going to travel together in all the way back to Perth. No flying this time. We're cruising!

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Day 20 of 55 - Exmouth Cape Tourist Village to Monkey Mia

2010-07-22T09:00:00.001-04:00

Day One of our drive back to Perth. Ottine and Jeroen were headed our way, and we needed a way back south. The four of us drove 90 minutes north to Exmouth the previous night so Jeff and I could return our rental jeep. First thing in the morning, we loaded up all our gear in the 1983 Ford Falcon station wagon (picture below), and headed south. It was December 26th, and we wanted to be in Perth by Dec. 30th, in time to settle in before we party like it's 1999, cause it was 1999! The eve of the new millennium. We had 4 days to make a 2 day drive, so we took a side trip to Monkey Mia where they feed wild dolphins.

We set up camp at Denham Seaside Tourist Village. Below is a picture of our campsite at the top of a hill overlooking the Indian Ocean. It was a fantastic view.

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Day 21 of 55 - Monkey Mia

2010-07-21T12:00:00.000-04:00

We watched one of the morning feedings at Monkey Mia. This is a picture I took of tourists feeding the wild dolphins. A ranger is nearby to be sure it all goes well. The dolphins get less than 1/3 their daily intake so as to keep them wild and fending for themselves.

Later, we took a cruise to see the wildlife and found sea snakes, dugongs, Australia's version of the Florida manatee, and sharks. It was called Shark Bay, there had to be a few around. Below is a picture I took of a tiger shark. Better to see them from on board a big boat.

We stayed a second night at the Denham Seaside Tourist Village. I wanted to stay longer, but we had places to go and a New Year's Eve party to attend!

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Day 22 of 55 - The Priory Lodge

2010-07-21T09:00:00.000-04:00

The Priory Lodge in Port Denison, Western Australia, now known as the Priory Hotel, was our final destination on this day. We arrived at sunset, found a restaurant that was still open, got harrassed by a drunk, well-meaning local who poked fun at our American accents, and returned to the hotel for a good night's sleep. The picture above was taken the following morning. The Priory Hotel used to be an old nunnery and all girls school. The place was loaded with character and quiet as could be. They had just reopened after extensive renovations, and I think we had the place to ourselves.

The day's drive was uncomfortably hot until we hit a rare desert thunderstorm midway. It cooled things down a notch, and in the end, we got closer to Perth. Another half day's drive and we'll be there. Below is a picture I took at Hamelin Pool, a place we stopped along the way to stretch our legs. It's home to the ancient stromatolite, a very slow growing algae. I know, it doesn't look like much, but to a biologist, this is a very cool place.

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Day 23 of 55 - Return to Perth, Capital of Western Australia

2010-07-20T12:00:00.000-04:00

Jeff and I left Perth 11 days ago, not knowing if we would fly out of Exmouth straight to Ayers Rock or what other options would show up. During those 11 days, we snorkeled the Ningaloo Reef nearly every day. Had encounters with all kinds of wildlife, above and below the sea, and met Jeroen and Ottine along the way. They made it possible for us to drive the long distance from Exmouth to Perth, instead of flying, and we have found our transportation for the remaining 4 1/2 weeks of our journey. It's a 1983 Ford Falcon station wagon. Who would've figured? Our "No-plan" plan was working out better than we could've planned ahead of time.

The four of us arrived at our final destination on December 30, 1999 to find the city filling up fast for the eve of the new millennium. We were going to party like it's 1999, 'cause it was! Backpackers, cruise ships, miliary troops on shore leave, and tourists from all over the world were descending upon this corner of the world, and we were part of it.

Without calling ahead to reserve a room anywhere in town, we were fortunate to find space available at the YHA Coolibah Hostel in Perth. We settled in and got ready for the big day.

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Day 24 of 55 - HAPPY NEW MILLENNIUM!!!

2010-07-20T09:00:00.000-04:00

The question of all questions, "Where will we be on New Year's Eve 2000?" was finally answered. We were staying in Perth, took the train to Cottesloe Beach, and stopped to see the sunset, listen to the live band that was being muffled by thousands of wild birds in the trees, saw some amazing sand sculptures, and then got back on the train to continue on to Fremantle where it was one very big party, and a lot of fun!

Y2K meant nothing when the calendar flipped from 1999 to 2000, and all was well. We were 12 hours ahead of NYC's Times Square ball drop, and we decided to let them figure out that the world would keep spinning the same as always.

All 3 photos above are not from the trip, but reflect a similar scene. I didn't bring my camera that night, but looking back, it would've been nice to have. The sand sculptures we saw were beyond belief.

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Writing a book can be stressful!

2010-07-20T07:00:00.000-04:00

This was me, on occassion, while writing An American in Oz. Whenever my husband would find me in this same position at my desk in front of my laptop he knew I was going through a particularly emotional or trying segment of the trip. Moments like these occurred most often during the first 25 daily entries. All the stress, confusion, and doubt of HOW things were going to work out in the "No Plan" plan played a huge role in PART ONE and PART TWO. I felt it all over again when I was writing about it. The good news is...the more I edited, revisited, and walked through those memories the better my experience was. Confusion led to clarity and doubt led to courage and confidence during the trip and in the writing of the trip.

The second half of the book, as I refer to it even though there are nearly 5 weeks left, was more relaxed than the first. I had moved from being a tourist to a traveler and was better at taking one day at a time. It also helped that all of our travel issues were solved with the purchase of the car.

So from this point on, I have always enjoyed the trip and the book with a lighter emotional load. I have a feeling the blog posts will go more smoothly too.

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Day 25 of 55 - New Year's Day in Australia

2010-07-19T12:00:00.000-04:00

Today was our first full day in possession of "Mum's Taxi." A previously owned 1983 Ford Falcon station wagon we bought from our Dutch friends, Jeroen and Ottine. It’s the same car we rode in from Exmouth to Perth. That's the same distance as driving from the Oregon/California border to Los Angeles. Before this trip, I didn't know Ford made and sold cars in Oz.

We said good-bye to our friends for the last time, and left the city limits of Perth to cross the Nullarbor Plain, a 3-day drive through the southern outback in the heat of summer without the benefit of a/c. We were told that if we did break down, it was best if we crawled under the car and stayed in the shade to wait for another car to come by. “Don’t even try to walk anywhere. You’ll never make it," was the strong warning.

We arrived before sunset, and before the kangaroos started migrating through the night, in the old gold rush town called Coolgardie, Gateway to the Nullarbor Plain, where many travelers stop to prepare for the long road ahead. We topped off the gas tank, the water bottles, bought some peanut butter and jelly, and booked a room at the Coolgardie Gold Rush Lodge. Below is a picture of our car parked in front of the lodge. Just look for the red one on the end.

Below is the town of Coolgardie. It was once a thriving city with 50,000 people, 12 banks, 3 breweries, 2 stock exchanges, 7 newspapers, and 26 hotels. Now, with its wide streets, it resembles a ghost town.

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Day 26 of 55 - The Eucla Whale - One of Australia's "Big Things"

2010-07-19T09:00:00.000-04:00

This was our introduction to Australia's "Big Things." This whale, in Eucla, Western Australia, represents whale watching season along a stretch of southern coastline known as the Great Australian Bight. I learned about the term "Big Things" long after I came home from this trip, and it's the only way to describe the giant sculptures we found along the way. Turns out there are dozens of big things scattered throughout the island continent representing the focus of the region. These works of art may be a bit rough around the edges, but they certainly get our attention....and plenty of mentions on blogs.

We ended the long day of driving, the first full day in the Nullarbor Plain, here in Eucla near the Western Australia/South Australia state border. We were glad to have a roof over our heads and air conditioning at the Eucla Motor Hotel. I'd insert a link to the hotel's website, but there isn't one. After extensive googling, I couldn't find a picture of the hotel either. I suppose they get enough business without the need for advertising. Mum's Taxi, our 1983 Ford, ran like a champ. Ford built those cars to withstand the heat of the outback, and I'm here to tell you they succeeded.

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Day 27 of 55 - More Big Things and The Great Australian Bight

2010-07-18T12:00:00.000-04:00

Here, I am a few miles down the road from Eucla, at the Western Australia/South Australia border. This "Big Thing" called "Rooey II" is one of the most famous of the tall structures scattered throughout the country. Jeff and I stopped long enough to take photos before moving on to the Great Australian Bight. Below is a picture of me on the Bight's windy coastline. The land looks as if it broke away from Antarctica only yesterday, but it's been eons since this happened. The entire continent is still moving north, "a movement comparable to the growth of a fingernail," says David Johnson from James Cook University in northern Queensland. No worries, that's only 67 mm a year. Johnson went on to say that one day, the land is either going to run into Asia, or it's going to gradually subside and disappear beneath the sea. If you'd like to hear the whole story and learn about Johnson's book, The Geology of Australia, click here.

This was the day of the "Closed Petrol Station Drama." Below is a picture of Max the Cat, the one I made friends with while waiting for a solution to our problem. He's the black and white blob on top of one of the bags inside the car. That's my shadow to the left. In the background is one of the petrol pumps closed up tight. The sun was setting, we wanted to move on, but we were out of gas and the station owners of BOTH stations had gone fishing together...for a week. To find out how we got out of this predicament, check out the rest of the story here.

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Day 28 of 55 - The Flinders Ranges

2010-07-18T09:00:00.000-04:00

The long hot 3-day drive brought us to the Flinders Ranges (above) in South Australia. If I were to place a USA map over an AUS map, it's in the same position as Jackson, Mississippi. We hadn't heard of this ancient mountain range and discovered it by reading the Lonely Planet travel guide. Wilpena Pound, a famous landmark in the Flinders Ranges, was our introduction to the Dreaming, the Aborigine's story of Creation. Below are cave drawings and wild flowers we saw along one of the trails we hiked on the outskirts of "the pound." I highly recommend visiting this area of Australia. It's worth flying half way around the world to experience this one place alone. More about Wilpena Pound in the next blog.

All 3 pictures are from the trip. To see our full trip map, click here. http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

Day 29 of 55 - Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges

2010-07-17T12:00:00.000-04:00

Today's blog features pictures from Wilpena Pound, a natural amphitheatre that is 10.5 miles long and 4.3 miles wide. It's one of the most significant landmarks in the Flinders Ranges in South Australia, and holds strong significance to the indigenous Adnyamthanha Aboriginal community.

Below is a picture of me on my way to the top of the rim.

The picture below was taken on the outside of the rim. We still had a long way to go to get to the top. The sun was setting, and we decided we had gone far enough. It was a rough hike for a couple of flatlanders, but the view was fantastic even if we didn't make it to the top. This is one of my favorite trip pictures. Me and my Aussie hat.

Below is a picture of the grassy lawn outside the restaurant at Wilpena Pound Motel where wild kangaroos gather in the evening hours. It's also the spot where I stared down a "big red," or maybe it was the other way around. Very intense. In the left portion of the photo you can see the tail end of our Ford. It's parked in front of our room.

One hundred yards from our motel room was the campground. Here's a picture of a roo hiding amongst the trees. It's a great spot to pitch a tent.

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Day 30 of 55 - Kanyaka Homestead in the Flinders

2010-07-17T09:00:00.000-04:00

On the way out of the Flinders Ranges, we toured Kanyaka Homestead, an abandoned sheep station that once managed as many as 50,000 sheep in the late 1800's.

Below is a picture of the stables.

Below is a picture of the shearer's quarters.

Below is a picture of the men's kitchen.

And here's a picture of me in Mum's Taxi! I'm sitting in the passenger seat. We're headed north to Coober Pedy, aka: "Mad Max Territory" where Mel Gibson filmed Beyond Thunderdome with Tina Turner.

Road trip! The journey continues.

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Day 31 of 55 - Coober Pedy

2010-07-16T12:00:00.000-04:00

Coober Pedy translates to "White fellow's hole in the ground." It's considered the opal capital of the world and is most famous for the film set of Mad Max Beyond Thunderdome with Mel Gibson and Tina Turner. It's also the set of another Aussie classic, The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. Coober Pedy has plenty of sand, explosives for blasting the land, and lots of cold beer 'cause it's hotter than hell. The picture below gives us a sense of Aussie humor.

Warning! Watch your step! At any given moment, the earth may expose an abandoned mine shaft and swallow you up.

Oddly enough, the only picture I took in Coober Pedy was of our hotel room at Bubby's Look Out Cave Motel (below). Most of the town lives, works, prays, and plays underground where it's a cool 72 degrees year round.

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Day 32 of 55 - ULURU - Planned Destination #2

2010-07-16T09:00:00.000-04:00

We arrived at Planned Destination #2 (Ningaloo Reef on the west coast was #1 and the Great Barrier Reef on the east coast is #3..saving the best for last.) Uluru is at the heart of Australia, in the "Red Center." I love this picture of Uluru (below) because it captured a rainbow in Oz. How cool is that?! A map of L. Frank Baum's Land of Oz from the Wizard of Oz (above) shows how he placed the Wizard's castle in the center. Coincidence? I don't think so.

Wildflowers in the park.

A full photo of Uluru, the second largest rock in Australia. Three quarters of it lies beneath the ground like an iceberg lies mostly under the water's surface.

The controversial choice to allow hikers to climb the rock is explained in the book. All I can say is I chose to stay on the ground. Climbing looked like way too much work.

Below is Kata Tjuta, another sacred site of the Aborigines.

All photos, except for the climbing one, are from the trip. To read the full story go to: http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

Traveling Light

2010-07-16T07:00:00.001-04:00

Those of you who have read the book already know of my challenge to travel light. Today, I stumbled upon this video. I have a feeling the idea of traveling with "no baggage whatsoever" will remain only a dream. Everytime I leave the house I take more than this.

Day 33 of 55 - Curtin Springs Cattle Station

2010-07-15T12:00:00.000-04:00

When we drove north from Coober Pedy to Uluru (Ayers Rock) we left the state of South Australia and entered the Northern Territory. Territories are like states in that they have capital cities, but they are governed differently. The USA had a similar situation when Alaska was a territory before it became a state.

This was our second day in Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park (SW of Alice Springs on the map above). At the end of Day 32, we found affordable accommodations at Curtin Springs Cattle Station ninety minutes down the road and stayed two nights. To see what Curtin Springs looks like, click on this link. It's worth a look and the extra drive to experience a working cattle ranch complete with an authentic outback steakhouse. Below is a picture of one of the animals on the property. I'm not sure what it is, a baby kangaroo or maybe a wallaby. I forgot to ask. It was cute and seemed to enjoy my company. I go into much greater detail about our day in the park, the Aborigines, and Curtin Springs here.

On this day, January 9, 2000, to be exact, I took the picture of a lifetime, the cover photo of the book. Jeff and I were driving away from Kata Tjuta on our way out of the park when I looked back and saw a surreal landscape. I shouted, "Stop the car!" Jeff pulled over, I jumped out, framed the shot, and jumped back in the car. Little did I know that brief moment in time would play a major role in the telling of this story. Because the picture (below) was taken on sacred ground, I now have a permit on file, issued by park officials with permission granted by the Aborigines, allowing me to use the photo in this way.

Day 34 will take us to Kings Canyon National Park, another popular attraction in the Red Center.

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Day 34 of 55 - Kings Canyon

2010-07-15T09:00:00.000-04:00

Jeff and I had grand ideas to hike up and into Kings Canyon National Park, a gorgeous part of Australia we hadn't heard about until we got to Uluru.

We learned the hard way that summer hikes were best completed by 10:00 AM or started after 4:00 PM, so we cancelled the idea until we could get our act together. We checked out of Curtin Springs and into the campground at Kings Canyon National Park. The photo above shows our car and our tent. We decided to take a vacation from our vacation and swam in the pool and washed our clothes at the nearby laundromat. Nothing too exciting about this day.

Until we get to Kings Canyon, a day I will always remember, I have a treat for you. Check out the video on this site. I don't know where it was filmed, but the swimming scene looks as if it could be Kings Canyon. The video was directed by Baz Luhrmann, the same guy who directed the movie Australia with Nicole Kidman and Hugh Jackman. The young Aborigine is also from the movie. Enjoy.

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Day 35 of 55 - The Dangers of the Outback

2010-07-14T12:00:00.000-04:00

Heat exhaustion,
Flies,
Ants, and
Rowdy campers are not a good mix.

Jeff and I left the Kings Canyon campground to return to Curtin Springs. We crawled back into the air conditioning and slept off a very bad decision to ever leave the comforts of a cattle ranch. Camping out in the summertime is not a good idea.

The hike into Kings Canyon will have to wait another day.

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Day 36 of 55 - Kings Canyon, Northern Territory

2010-07-14T09:00:00.000-04:00

This is the day Jeff and I hiked up and into Kings Canyon. It started out cloudy and rainy, rare outback desert conditions, and ended with a spectacular sunset. Below are a series of photos I took while hiking the four-hour loop.

Here is one example of Kings Canyon wildlife. Not sure what kind of lizard this was, but it was colorful. There were also rock wallabies in the kangaroo family (they moved way too fast to get a picture of), birds, frogs, ducks, and marcupial mice. Yes, those mice carry their young in a pouch. Only in Australia. I have more surprising marsupial discoveries coming on Day 41. Meanwhile, I'm posting as fast as I can!

A view from the top looking down into the Garden of Eden. It was a cloudy day which kept the air pleasantly cool.

A scenic look into the outback.

The fire escape-type stairs leading down into the Garden of Eden. You can click on the photo to get a better look.

At the end of the hike, the clouds parted, a rainbow appeared, and an orange sunset began.

A sunset the outback is famous for. You just gotta be there to get the whole effect.

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Day 37 of 55 - Alice Springs, Northern Territory

2010-07-13T12:00:00.000-04:00

Reaching Alice Springs, aka: "The Alice," meant we had driven the same distance as if we had gone from Los Angeles, CA to Topeka, KS. It also meant we had completed Planned Destination #2, visit Ayers Rock, now known to us as Uluru. Destination #3 was still ahead, The Great Barrier Reef along the NE coastline. We still had a lot of ground to cover, the distance from Kansas to Boston, MA, and Mum's Taxi was holding up well.

Along the way to Alice Springs, we encountered camels and ostrichs on a farm outside of town. Pictures are below.

It was hotter than hot that day, so we checked into the Melanka Lodge and checked emails at the Byte Me Internet Cafe. Now, ten years later, I heard through the Internet grapevine that the Melanka has been torn down. Maybe the outback heat was too much for it.

Melanka Lodge pool

Melanka Lodge

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Day 38 of 55 - More about Alice Springs

2010-07-13T09:00:00.000-04:00

Here is a picture of the town of Alice Springs. Jeff and I enjoyed an extra day in air conditioning at the Melanka Lodge before heading back into the heat and onto the open road. A long drive awaits before we reach the east coast. Alice Springs is where all of my photos, taken up until this point, were developed. It was surreal to sit back and look at how much had happened since landing in the airport in Sydney nearly six weeks earlier.

"The Alice" was made famous by the book A Town Like Alice by Nevil Shute, published in 1950. While in town, I learned about the Henley-on-Todd Regatta. It's an annual fund raiser for Rotary Club International and the world's first and only waterless boat race. The event in 2010 took place on August 21st. The official website is full of pictures.

Below is a familiar face, the McDonalds golden arches and the Rotary Club symbol. It is a small world.

Looks like a lot of fun!!

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Day 39 of 55 - Wycliffe Well and Devils Marbles

2010-07-12T12:00:00.000-04:00

This day was an all day travel day. We passed through Wycliffe Well, Australia's version of Roswell, NM complete with alien sightings. Below is a picture of the tourist shop.

A bit further down the road was Devils Marbles. A natural phenomenon where rocks erode into spheres and appear to balance precariously on one another. It's also the home of an Aboriginal Dreaming. The story says that these are really eggs laid by the Rainbow Serpent, the one who governs life's most precious resource, water.

Fun with rocks. That's me in the photo.

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Day 40 of 55 - Mount Isa, Queensland

2010-07-12T09:00:00.000-04:00

It was another long day of driving, and we finally made it out of the Northern Territory and into the state of Queensland in the NE corner of Oz. This is the area of Australia I call the "dog's ear." Mount Isa can be seen in the NW corner of the state on the map above. A mining town, it's still in the outback and the local quarry gets blasted every 12 hours causing "Everything to shake" according to its residents. I suppose they get used to it after awhile. The summer of 2000 was a wet year, so it was a bit greener than how it shows in the photo below.

Jeff and I have tucked ourselves into a bit of luxury at the Mount Isa Outback Motor Inn after being on the road for so long. This is where I found a USA-themed restaurant and experienced the thrill of a sense of home. Hanging on the walls were license plates from all 50 states and my birth place, Washington, D.C. Viewing pictures on the Internet, I found that the license plates have been removed and there's a new theme, the Explorer Restaurant, but I will always remember the way it was.

Below is a picture my sister sent me the other day. It's a bat similar to the one I saw above my head while walking from the motel's restaurant to our room. With those giant bats flying in the sky I was glad to have a roof over my head that night. Giant frogs were outside our door, and bug-eating geckos were in our room. I'm okay with geckos. They're kinda cute.

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Day 41 of 55 - Dinosaurs in the Outback

2010-07-11T12:00:00.000-04:00

Jeff and I stayed one night at the Mount Isa Outback Motor Inn and then headed east. But before leaving Mount Isa, we toured the Riversleigh Fossils Interpretive Center. This is where we learned about dinosours found only in Australia. There were full replicas of marsupial lions and rhinos on display among many other odd creatures. Can you imagine that? A lion and a rhino carrying their young in a pouch like a kangaroo. Cool.

Several hours down the road we arrived at Kronosaurus Korner in Richmond, Queensland. The doors to the museum had just closed, so we had to settle for a photo op with another "Big Thing of Australia" representing Kronosaurus queenslandicus, a giant ocean dwelling dinosaur. Much of Australia was under water millions of years ago, and to this day, skeletons continue to pop up after a good rain. Below is a photo of me wrestling with Mr. Queenslandicus.

There was still time to drive another two hours before dark and before kangaroos started migrating in the night. We ended up in Hughenden, Queensland. One more day of driving, and we'll be on the east coast!

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Day 42 of 55 - Two Weeks Left

2010-07-11T09:00:00.000-04:00

This blog will feature road trains, aquariums, and koalas. Australia is full of interesting things!

First, the road train. It's a tractor trailer with as many as four trailers behind it. (Compare that to US trucks that are permitted to pull one trailer at a time.) On a narrow two-lane highway with only a yellow line separating us from them, it was quite an experience. Below is a picture of our car parked as a two-trailer train passed by. Now imagine two more trailers added to this and you might find yourself saying "Crikey!" as the back draft pushes the car off the road.

Despite the road hazards, we made it safely to Townsville, Queensland on the east coast, right about where Boston, MA sits on the USA map. It felt great to be so close to our final destination, the Great Barrier Reef. First stop, the Living Reef Aquarium. It reminded me of the National Aquarium in Baltimore, Maryland. While browsing the gift shop, I found those magic words, "Koala Capital of Australia" on Magnetic Island just a short boat ride away. We ended up spending the night on this island named by Captain James Cook. Next blog: pictures of koalas and parrots. Because koalas are so cute, here's one of my favorites I found on the Internet. Day 43's pictures will show how difficult these nocturnal marsupials are to spot in the wild.

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Day 43 of 55 - Koalas on Magnetic Island, Queensland

2010-07-10T12:00:00.000-04:00

Magnetic Island, Queensland, on the NE coast of Australia near the Great Barrier Reef is known as the "Koala Capital of Australia." We enjoyed two nights and a full day on this beautiful tropical island. All pictures below are from the trip. The Travelers Backpacker Lodge, where we stayed, has since been torn down. It was a bit rough around the edges ten years ago, but I thought it would still be there.

Below is Horsehoe Bay, Magnetic Island. The fence in the water is the safe zone that keeps the deadly box jellyfish out.

The trees were filled with rainbow lorikeets.

A walk up to "The Forts," lookouts left over from WWII, gave us good views.

A view from Magnetic Island looking out.

Introducing the koalas!

They have pink jaws that make it look like they've got an orange in their mouth. What they do eat are the leaves of the eucalyptus tree, and their only exercise is when they climb down, walk a bit to the next tree, and climb up. They are very lazy creatures.

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Day 44 of 55 - El Arish, Queensland

2010-07-10T09:00:00.000-04:00

Magnetic Island was a side trip we weren't expecting. Reluctantly, it was a short stay and soon time to move on and get to David's place in El Arish, Queensland. David is the son of one of my clients. I go into great detail about David, my work with his mum, and all about his organic tree farm deep in the rainforest in the book. Day 45 will also feature pictures of this amazing place. It's on Day 46 when we finally snorkel one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, the Great Barrier Reef. Meanwhile, here are photos of David's place. Enjoy.

The road to El Arish. Still getting used to being on the "wrong" side of the road.

Australia's full of odd signs. This one warns us of possible cassowary crossings. Cassowarys are large emu-like birds. I'll have pictures of this odd flightless creature later.

David's front steps. Can you see them? It might help to click on the picture to get a better look.

David's "treehouse." It's really a stilt home, but it blended into the forest so well, I called it a treehouse. The white thing on the steps is a chicken.

David's five chickens...and then there were four. Big snakes live in this forest.

Here I am standing on David's front porch after a nice cool swim in one of the property's three natural streams.

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Day 45 of 55 - El Arish continued

2010-07-09T12:00:00.000-04:00

Below are pictures of David, his crops, his livestock, and a cassowary that roams his property.

David on his front porch with his bountiful crop of exotic fruit.

David standing in his organic taro crop.

The chicken nest

David with Lotho, his pet donkey.

A wild baby cassowary stops by to visit.

Below is a picture I found to show what the adults look like.

Sort of matches the road sign on Day 44.

Rainforest wildflower

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Day 46 of 55 - The Great Barrier Reef!

2010-07-09T09:00:00.000-04:00

When Jeff and I planned this two-month Australian odyssey, we had three destinations in mind.
#1 - The Ningaloo Reef on the west coast in the Indian Ocean
#2 - Ayers Rock, now known to us as Uluru, in the center of Australia
#3 - The Great Barrier Reef in the Pacific Ocean on the east coast

On Day 46 we finally arrived at Destination #3.

Below is a picture of the white sandy island that began to emerge when the tide went out. The reef itself can be seen in the shadowing. It doesn't look like much from above, but once I was underwater with a face mask, a whole different world opened up. The skiff was our shuttle back to the main boat from the white island.

The crew threw out fish food and created a feeding frenzy.

And then the wide body Queensland grouper cruised into view.

Below is David having a leisurely snorket over the reef. The water was crystal clear. If you click on the photo, you'll get a better look at the water.

Getting good underwater photos was a challenge with a cheap disposable camera, so I found several on the Internet to give an idea of what the undersea world looks like. Google the Great Barrier Reef Images and you'll find many more available.

I have no idea who this guy is, but he gives a good reference as to the size of the clams.

Another look at the giant clam.

Great Barrier Reef sea slug

Lots of fish and coral live in the reef.

Below is a picture of clownfish, the star of the movie "Finding Nemo."

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Day 47 of 55 - North to Port Douglas, Queensland

2010-07-08T12:00:00.000-04:00

After three nights at David's organic tree farm, Jeff and I decided to head north along the Great Green Way to a destination with air conditioning....a youth hostel in Port Douglas. Port Douglas is one of Australia's hottest destinations (literally and figuratively) where Australian's take their own holidays. The picture above shows the beautiful scenery along the way.

The picture below was borrowed from MSNBC to show what's ahead. In addition to more snorkeling on the Great Barrier Reef, we were entering crocodile territory. Below is a photo of "Rex." He's in captivity, but his profile was so impressive, I chose him to be the poster child of one of Australia's most dangerous creatures, "salties," the salt water crocodile. Crikey! (I love that word.) To read more about the challenges of living in the rainforest, crocodiles, and our Great Barrier Reef swims, check out the full story here.

More blogs ahead. The trip continues!

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Day 48 of 55 - Port Douglas, Queensland

2010-07-08T09:00:00.000-04:00

Above is the route Jeff and I took through Australia. Port Douglas is in the northeast. If you click on the map, it will go to another screen to give a better look. Port Douglas sits about where Portland, Maine sits in the USA.

Below is a picture of our charter boat, Wavelength. It was a snorkel-only cruise, and we swam above three different reefs that day. It was like hovering over a magical kingdom.

Below is a picture of one of the larger three-decker dive/snorkel boats.

Below is a picture of two World Heritage Areas (National Parks), where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef.

Our last snorkel was filled with colorful fish and coral. The Great Barrier Reef earns it's title every single day. What a thrill it was to experience this global treasure. I highly recommend it!

While in Port Douglas, we stayed at a youth hostel called Coconut Grove Budget Accommodations in the heart of town. When I looked it up on the Internet, I saw that it's been remodeled slightly. Check it out here. It's still the Coconut Grove, but with an entirely new look. Now that's a resort!!

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Day 49 of 55 - Back to El Arish, Queensland

2010-07-07T09:00:00.000-04:00

Port Douglas was a 2-night/3 day stay, and it was time to return to El Arish and continue our visit with David. Along the way, we stopped in Cairns for lunch and then continued the drive south taking a side trip to a park called "Golden Hole" named after an old gold mine. We ended the day staying at the Eco Village in Mission Beach, minutes from David's house. Jeff and I voted on a bit of luxury that night, a place with room service and laundry facilities.

Here is a picture of Cairns, "The Tourist Capital of Tropical North Queensland."

A gorgeous park setting awaits at Golden Hole on the Russell River.

The water was crystal clear, cool and refreshing at Golden Hole. A welcome relief from the oppressive heat. But our stay was only an hour. We needed to get back on the road and back to David's neighborhood.

We booked a room at the Eco Village. Check out their website. It looks exactly as it did when we were there. http://www.ecovillage.com.au/

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Day 50 of 55 - Mission Beach, Queensland

2010-07-06T09:00:00.000-04:00

Mission Beach became my favorite place in Australia. Gorgeous beaches, vegetarian friendly with a casual atmosphere. Below is a photo of Dunk Island, a popular vacation destination. So many islands, so little time.

This was the day David took us on a bush walk on his favorite track. This sunbird nest was right outside our door at Eco Village.

Here I am with a smile on my face BEFORE we took a 90-degree turn into the thick forest, and before I found freeloaders on my toes. Notice that I'm wearing sandals. For details about that horrifying moment, check out the book. Or maybe you've already read about, and laughed about, that episode. Not funny!!

Below is a picture of David enjoying a veggie sandwich prepared by the staff at Eco Village. We had brought along a picnic lunch, and it was delicious. Even though this was the middle of the day, a flash on the camera was necessary because it was so dark under the forest canopy.

A natural ceiling in the rainforest.

For our last night in Queensland, we headed back to David's place for a party with his rainforest neighbors. His treehouse deep in the bush is shrouded in mist.

http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

Day 51 of 55 - All Aboard the Queensland Railway!

2010-07-05T09:00:00.000-04:00

Last night's party in the rainforest was fascinating. While I didn't take any pictures of David's friends, I will always remember the experience, because it caused me to rethink my work, my life, and where I live. I'm a writer and blogger today as a result.

The following morning, and before Jeff and I left for the train station, David took us to his own private waterfall. Below is a picture of David sitting at the bottom of the falls. The pool in the foreground was cool and refreshing.

When we got back to the treehouse to pack up and leave, the same baby cassowary that greeted us upon our arrival came back, as if to say good-bye. We hadn't seen him in between those two meetings, so this last sighting was especially meaningful.

Time to catch a train at the Tully Queensland Railway station. All Aboard!!!! We're headed home, but first a 3-night/2-day layover in Brisbane, the capital of the state of Queensland.

http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

Day 52 of 55 - Brisbane, Queensland

2010-07-04T09:00:00.000-04:00

It was an overnight train ride from Tully to Brisbane on the Queensland Railway. Our first-class accommodations were wonderful, and while we traveled the same distance as it is between Boston, MA and Wilmington, NC, we never left the state of Queensland. In a country with only six states and two major territories, it's understandably a long distance, but many travelers are taken by surprise. The distances can be deceiving.

For the next three nights, Jeff and I settled into the Explorers Inn. Below is a photo of our home away from home. Unbeknownst to us, we were decompressing from being on the move the past eight weeks. Brisbane had much to offer, and we discussed taking a bus ride through the city, but there was little motivation to do any more than take short walks, eat in, and watch movies. The traveler in us was exhausted.

http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

Day 53 of 55 - Fun with Street Kangaroos

2010-07-03T09:00:00.000-04:00

There's a saying among travelers, "When you start looking like your passport photo, it's time to go home."

Below is a picture of me visiting with the Brisbane street kangaroos, a nice bunch of fellows.

http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

Day 54 of 55 - Last day in Brisbane

2010-07-02T09:00:00.000-04:00

This day was a repeat of Day 53. It's the shortest entry in the book and now the shortest blog entry. More photos will be in the next post.

Day 55 of 55 - Full Circle Back to Sydney

2010-07-01T09:00:00.001-04:00

On this morning, January 31, 2000, we boarded the XPT in Brisbane, Queensland. The XPT is a sleek, modern and aerodynamic train built for speed. We were in Sydney, the capital city of New South Wales, by the end of the day, standing on the very same platform from where we had departed 55 days earlier.

Our journey through Oz was complete, we had come full-circle, and it was time to go home. Jeff and I booked a room at the Pacific International Inn on George Street (now called The Great Southern Hotel), the same hotel we stayed in on our first day in Australia.

The next morning's flight out on Qantas Airlines took us to Fiji where Jeff and I enjoyed a five-day vacation from our vacation at Tabua Sands.

Flying home, we lived February 7th twice when we crossed over the International Date Line (IDL) east to west. It was a 28-hour trip door-to-door, but we arrived the same morning as we left according to the itinerary. Crossing the IDL this second time caused us to get our lost December 7th day back, the day I mentioned losing at the beginning of this story.

Traveling to Australia for two months was an extraordinary experience, and I'm grateful for all the Aussies and fellow travelers who made our trip a huge success!

http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

The Youngest Explorer

2010-06-30T09:00:00.002-04:00

I've been doing a lot of soul searching lately, and looking back at my life I saw a pattern beginning as early as age one. I'm an explorer through and through. Here's a picture of me in search of new worlds.

That clump in the grass? It's my doll. I've left her behind without a care, and I've been on the move ever since.

Forty-four states later, and several foreign lands, I'm now a travel essay writer. After years selling stamps, managing money, and sorting through stuff, I am more at home in my new role than in any other.

I hope you've enjoyed this series of photos related to my book, An American in Oz: Discovering the Island Continent of Australia. It was a lot of fun revisiting the journey via pictures.

Jennifer Monahan

Writer and Explorer

http://www.anamericaninoz.com/

http://www.jennifermonahan.com/

The best part of the trip.

2010-06-29T09:00:00.000-04:00

I'm often asked, "What did you like most about Australia?" and my first response is always "The people." Aussies are the friendliest, most laid back, seriously happy people I have ever come across. Maybe it has something to do with living on a continent filled with sunshine and surrounded by gorgeous beaches. I also believe it has a lot to do with the nation's philosophy to give everyone "A fair go," which means "Treat everyone fairly and give everyone a fair chance (to do their best)." Now that's the way to live.

Dorothy of Oz visits Australia

2010-04-19T10:07:00.011-04:00

While researching the origin of Oz as a nickname for Australia, I learned that L. Frank Baum, the genius behind The Wizard of Oz, discovered the title of his classic children's tale from a file cabinet. In the midst of writing, Baum was stumped on what to name his imaginary land, and right before him were two drawers labeled A-N and O-Z. "O-Z. I'll call the land Oz!" he said.

It was in the 1960's when an Aussie journalist first used the playful spelling "Oz" as he wrote about his homeland in a Sydney newspaper. The play on words stuck, and the rest is history.

Whether Baum ever went to Australia remains a mystery to me. He didn't seem to travel much, but I learned that a few of his characters did. In the fall of 2009, my friend David from Queensland (the star of PART SIX in the book ) was reading Ozma of Oz, one of the sequels to The Wizard of Oz. To David's surprise, he saw that the story opens with Dorothy traveling to Australia with her Uncle Henry to visit relatives. Uncle Henry's health was failing, and Aunt Em thought the trip would do him good. Meanwhile, Aunt Em stayed on the farm to take care of things while Dorothy and Henry were off on their voyage half way around the world.

David was quick to tell me about Dorothy's trip to Australia, and I added it to a growing list of similarities between Baum's Oz and Australia's Oz, two magical lands far, far away from here.